Coimbra

We only have a short walk this morning, 12.5km, to get from Cernache to Coimbra. It's a lot of hills through both suburbs and patches of forest. Walking through a remote section we pass a car, parked by itself, and I joke "where's he putting the body?" Then a man in camouflage with a shotgun comes into view on the track. He's too serious looking for anything more than a 'good morning'. The next guy is friendlier and we find out they are hunting some kind of bird, not pilgrims.

We cross over a section of the southern highway into Coimbra. My guidebook tells me that the Roman aquaduct we see bisected by the highway was cut in two to make way for the road. If true it is certainly a crime of progress.

We arrive at the top off the hill south of the city and see our first glimpse of the old city across the river. It's amazing, with several churches and monasteries, tiny alleys separating ancient buildings and the university perched on top of the hill.

After getting some directions and a map from the tourist office we wander down an alleyway for a drink and decide that it's time for lunch. It's weird being in a trendy tourist area for a day, a very different experience from the small villages that we walk through. I have a bit of fun saying 'bom dia' and 'boa tarde' to people as we pass. They clearly don't expect their existence to be acknowledged.

Some of the churches and monasteries have small entrance fees, but we get in for free as pilgrims. Don't tell too many people, but if you are prepared to walk 240kms from Lisbon you can save yourself about €6.

Near the top of the hill is a museum with an outdoor cafe. It has views over the old cathedral (12 century) and the city. It is an excellent place for a coke, with ice, and at €1.50 definitely worth the small premium for the view. We pass on the museum, at €4. Clearly we have developed a sense of pilgrim entitlement.

At 3pm our hostel is open. After a shower (and clothes washing) I am ready to try to get a charger for my camera. We get a taxi to the shopping centre. I know we could have walked, but it is nice to occasionally enter a building not completely covered in sweat. Neither of the two electronics shops have a suitable charger. It looks like I will be carrying my camera as a rock. Since my phone takes photos anyway I know it's not really necessary, though I have missed a few things the camera alone can do. We get a taxi back to the city, I could get used to this riding around thing. Walking back up the first street we passed through this morning I decide to try a tiny photo shop. He has a charger that works. I am not sure what the lesson is here, but I now have a charger.

It's time for dinner and we find a cheap place up the hill and just out of the main tourist area. Several policemen are eating there, so I figure it's good sign. Probably the safest place to eat in Coimbra and good food. Today is the first time I have had two meals in the same town in Portugal.

Our last goal for the day is to see a Fado concert. This a particularly Portuguese music style, and renowned for its sadness. It would probably help to understand the words but the guys singing are definitely lamenting well. There's a woman or possibly a pet out there somewhere who doesn't know what they are missing.

Day 10 ends around midnight.

Today's photos: 1. Coimbra from across the river. 2. Santa Cruz monastery. 3. Alleyway.  4. An alleged crime scene.